Fashion
Compiled by Ojas Kolvankar and Rushmika Banerjee
Rapture: The Art of Indian Textiles (2011) by Rahul Jain
“The book traces the evolution of design in historic Indian textiles from the 15th to the early 20th century, covering a period of almost 500 years. This story is told through lavish images of some of the most remarkable textiles made at the height of their patronage, in some of the world’s greatest collections. – Mayank Mansingh Kaul, writer and curator
Kashmir Shawls: The TAPI Collection (2012) by Steven Cohen, Rosemary Crill, Monique Lévi-Strauss and Jeffrey B Spurr
“The power of woven Indian textiles to command trade across the oceans is richly illustrated in this book. The Kashmir shawl, without which no lady of fashion could do without in nineteenth-century Europe, sold for ever-higher prices, as its intricate tapestry weave came into fashion.European centers reproduced shawls on the revolutionary jacquard loom as industrialization fueled “faster, better and cheaper” imitations, leading to the extinction of the original weaving.His story is an ominous warning for the current rapid migration from hand loom to looms in India, which threatens the very textile skills the world honors. Radhi Parekh, founder and director of Artisans
Women’s Work: Bauhaus Textile Art (1993) by Sigrid Weltge-Wortmann
“This year marks 100 years since the founding of the Bauhaus, which defined modern design (and education) in the 20th century. The title of the book is significant. As spirited young women were drawn to the Bauhaus after World War I, they soon learned that textiles, in the hierarchy of art and design, were meant to be “women’s work”. Their names were unknown. It was only recently that Anni Albers was recognized as a modern, abstract artist in a groundbreaking exhibition at Tate Modern. Textiles continue to be deprecated in the hierarchy of fine craftsmanship even today. – Radhi Parekh, founder and director of Artisans
Saris: Tradition and Beyond (2010) by Rta Kapur Chishti
“There is no more comprehensive and documented book on the sari. Chishti’s book travels through 14 sari-producing states across India to trace the full range and diversity of India’s signature garment. She reviews the myriad of styles, weaves and designs that give the traditional saree its power, strength and continued relevance today. The total weight of Chishti’s research will be impressive to scholars, designers and admirers of the sari. – Rajat Singh, writer
Warp and Weft: Community and Gender Identity among Benares Weavers (2010) by Vasanthi Raman
“Raman paints a picture of the many hidden hands that make up the term ‘loom’. Her research on Muslim weavers in Varanasi sheds light on how gender, class, and religious identity shape the lives of weaving communities in India and ultimately shape our understanding of garment production. We understand the loom’s historical ties to the swadeshi movement, but Raman’s book exposes how plural identities and communal violence are deeply woven into the fabric of the sari. – Rajat Singh, writer
Shifting Sands: Kutch: Textiles, Traditions, Transformation (2013) by Archana Shah
“This book is a moving tribute to Kutch’s handmade textiles and clothing that explores the key role textiles play in the ongoing narrative of a traditional culture.” – David Abraham, designer and co-founder, Abraham & Thakore
Handcrafted Indian Textiles: Tradition and Beyond (2000) by Martand Singh, Rta Kapur Chishti and Rahul Jain
“This book examines the extraordinary textiles developed for the Vishwakarma series of exhibitions (1982-92), which demonstrated the virtuosity of Indian weavers and artisans across the country in the form of exceptional textiles.” – David Abraham, designer and co-founder, Abraham & Thakore
Block Printed Textiles of India: Footprints of Culture (2016) by Eiluned Edwards
“Block printed textiles in India have a long history, dating back millennia and at the same time continuing to be relevant today. This book tells this fascinating story, examining the earliest fragments through to contemporary fashion. The book appeals to me because the subject matter, while vast, has been well documented and the story and production process are told in an engaging way with informative imagery. Block-printed fabrics are probably some of the most well-known textiles in the country and anyone interested in them will appreciate Edward’s book. – Monisha Ahmed, textile anthropologist, co-founder and executive director Ladakh Arts and Media Organization
Dress Matters: Dress and Identity in India (1996) by Emma Tarlo
“In a country with such a rich and varied textile tradition, you’d think we’d be spoiled for choice, but what we wear isn’t always determined by what’s available to us. Tarlo’s book examines the dilemmas Indians face when deciding what to wear and how our choices are shaped by identity, where we come from and who we are, apart from what we can afford. . She examines how events and individuals, particularly Mahatma Gandhi, in Indian history have shaped our textile manufacturing and preferences. You may not always agree with Tarlo, but his book is a fascinating study into the cultural aspects of clothing in India. – Monisha Ahmed, textile anthropologist, co-founder and executive director Ladakh Arts and Media Organization
Golden Sheaves and Scarlet Flowers: Traditional Indian Textiles from the Museum of Ethnography, Basel, Switzerland (1986)
“It serves as an excellent visual reference to the fabrics of different regions of India.” – Sanjay Garg, textile designer and founder, Raw Mango
Textile Arts of India: Kokyo Hatanaka Collection (1996)
“The book explores a large collection of textiles dating from the 17th century to the first half of the 20th century which are painted, block printed, woven, dyed and embroidered.” – Sanjay Garg, textile designer and founder, Raw Mango
Silk Brocades (2003 and reissued in 2008) by Yashodhara Agrawal
“I came across this book while working in Varanasi for the Varanasi Weavers Upasana Project. I have referenced this book several times for The Loom, its detailed article on Varanasi weaving techniques. This is an excellent compilation of hand weaving, as this type of research is often done by outsiders. Yashodhara ji, however, being a local adds an extra dimension. – Uma Prajapati, co-founder of Upasana Design Studio
Empire of Cotton: A Global History (2014) by Sven Beckert
“This book dispels the commonly held notion that cotton is just a textile product. Events in world history have been dramatically influenced by cotton, as this book shows. I appreciate the intersection of world history, trade and textiles that come together in a unique way to provide a compelling perspective on world events. The book traces the advent of cotton to the subcontinent and its spread through ancient trade routes from India to Europe to the Middle East. Empire of Cotton identifies cotton as the most traded commodity in the world and as the underlying factor that led to the start of the Industrial Revolution and set in motion a series of events that would lead to the emergence of new European colonial powers and would eventually culminate in two world wars. It also establishes the European hunger for cotton as an important driving force in European colonial expeditions and cotton’s role in starting the American Civil War. This book was recommended to me by none other than Radhika Jayakar (daughter of Indian activist and writer Pupul Jayakar) and is one of my most treasured possessions. – K. Radharaman, CEO and Head of Design, House of Angadi