Is Benares a timeless city or is the idea of timelessness a modern concept imposed on it? Author and filmmaker Nilosree Biswas and photographer Irfan Nabi set out to explore this in their latest photo book, “Banaras: Gods, Humans and Stories”, published by Niyogi Publications. Told alongside the deeply moving images clicked by Nabi, the book delves deep into the unique history and culture of Benares. Biswas reflects on the role played by European travelers in imposing the idea of “ethereal” and “eternal” in Benares; how the city’s placement on the banks of the holy Ganges added to its religiosity and made it an ideal center for trade; how specialized arts and crafts emerged in the region and also the important role played by the Mughals in the enrichment and development of Benares.
In an interview with Indianexpress.com, Biswas and Nabi talked about their discoveries of this most remarkable city and how they went about capturing it.
The book dives deep into the unique history and culture of Benares. (Photo: Irfan Nabi)
Excerpts from the interview
Why would you say Benares is considered timeless?
Nilosree: This perception of timelessness is derived from the fact that Benares is the abode of Shiva on earth and since Shiva has no temporal specificity in mythology and/or in the belief system, the notion of timelessness has therefore always existed. .
From a more physical and literal perspective, I correlated Benares with other ancient cities like Jerusalem, Beijing, and Cairo. In the case of Benares, the perception of timelessness is also associated with the visual impressions embedded in our minds. This visual impression had been a sort of palimpsest created by various actors across different regimes. What we see today is a more recent understanding of a city by the water with a view of the spiers of the temple, a flight of giant steps which rises, to disappear in the belly of Benares.
What are the similarities between Benares and the other ancient cities you mentioned?
Nilosree: Any place that is considered historically ancient or that has a trace of habitation for a very long time generates stories. To be more specific though, all of these cities had historically attracted foreign travellers. It is the journey of the travelers that often binds them in the sense that they have the soul of a storyteller.
When photographing a city like Benares, which is considered an ancient city, what are you looking to capture?
Irfan: I don’t get overwhelmed by the amount of work or references that has already been done on a city like Benares. I approach it without any preliminary template. I photograph a city with a blank canvas. When I go there I spend a lot of time observing and absorbing the sense of place, the traditions and culture, the smaller and finer aspects, the much talked about ghats and the Ganges, the nooks and crannies of the city, as well as the continuous flow of people that transcends into an endless synergy that can be felt.
In this case, I tried to shoot Benares at a minimum. In all my discussions with those who know or have visited Benares, they tell me that it is teeming with millions. But in my frames, I tried to give Benares a seemingly paused view.
“In my frames, I tried to give Benares a seemingly paused view,” Irfan Nabi said. (Photo: Irfan Nabi)
Why was Benares important to the Mughals?
Nilosree: The first time a Mughal emperor paid attention to Benares was during the reign of Humayun. He donated for a few Shaivite mutts and sects present in Benares at that time. Later, his son Akbar, who had a more captivating understanding of the politics of the territories he ruled, was aware that much of his court followed Hinduism and was affiliated with this Sanskritized city. For his own interests and also because he was inclusive and syncretic in his understanding of the faith, he had invested time and funds in Benares, ensuring that the scholarly and cultural aspect of the city was maintained. All of this happened via his ministerial aides, in particular Todar Mal and Man Singh. Both were involved in the development of Benares. Toder Mal had a small administrative unit in Benares. He also built a mansion in the center of town which is now called the Chowk Quarter. Man Singh also rebuilt the Kashi Vishwanath and Bindu Madhav temples which were later destroyed by Aurangzeb. Kashi Viswanath was rebuilt again by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. All of the Mughal emperors had by and large donated land and money to several Shaivite sects present.
With such involvement of rulers and their associates, came large numbers of merchants, craftsmen, weavers, scholars and craftsmen, who helped build the city under royal patronage.
Benares is frequently visited by foreigners who consider it the spiritual capital of India. Is there a way in which Benares is presented to the western world?
Nilosree: This idea that Benares is the spiritual capital of India to my knowledge is quite contemporary; emerging during colonial rule shaped by Western understanding of Benares through polymaths like James Prinsep, Reverend Sherring, artists William Hodges, Daniels, Mark Twain and more. Their understanding of the city translates in different ways.
For example, James Prinsep was part of the mint administration in Benares and contributed a lot to the development of the city’s infrastructure. For him, Benares was above all a Hindu city and this was reflected in his sketches. He had drawn almost every aspect of Benares from the Budhwa/Boorwa (spelling of Prinsep) Mangal festival, to Chandra Grahan (lunar eclipse), ghats, etc., but the focus was always on Hinduism. For him, the Hindu aspect of Benares was the most fascinating. Hodges also associated Benares with its former glory when describing his travels. There are many lithographs, watercolors, sketches and many other artistic expressions that have had an impact on the western world.
Once these artistic works reached Europe, the understanding of Benares was perceived differently. Therefore, a European wishing to travel would look at these images. Subsequently, a notion was constructed that Benares was a representation of spiritual India.
The other aspect is erudition as in the works of Max Mueller and much later that of Professor Diana Eck who had insisted a lot on the Ganges and sacred geography. In the West, for many Indologists, India is still the land of the Ganges.
You mentioned that at the end of the 18th century, Benares became the inherent commercial capital of the subcontinent. How did it happen?
Nilosree: Even during ancient times Benares has always been a prosperous city. During Mughal rule, the city became a hub of craft traditions that we now associate with Benares, including Banarasi kimkhwab sarees, zardozi, muslin, woodworking, metalworking and several other products were made here. Due to the Ganges, these traditional objects were transported to and from Benares. In the 18th century and with the emergence of Europeans, the commercial aspect intensified.
Even in earlier times, there was a large presence of Hindu and Jain merchants roaming Benares. For example, a very important section of traders belonging to Marwar had settled with the Amber dynasty in Benares. When the central administration or the court takes care of a city, it is obvious that it will be visited by many traders.
“When the central administration or the court is dealing with a city, it is obvious that it will be visited by many traders,” said Nilosree Biswas. (Photo: Irfan Nabi)
Another factor is that due to general religiosity many people wanted to have an association with Benares. Every important princely state in India had a house, ghat or brahmapuri in Benares. It also led to smaller business interactions.
Is portraying Benares in an exclusively Hindu form a conscious effort or is that how the city is?
Irfan: It is undeniable that Benares has a dominant Hindu identity and imagery. As I don’t know all the Hindu practices, observing and capturing them was a most fascinating experience for me. The lack of familiarity actually worked in my favor since for me every act and practice was a very new thing. For me, photographing Benares was primarily from the perspective that it was a Hindu seat of civilization and faith.
The Manikarnika Ghat (Photo: Irfan Nabi)
If capturing the Islamic presence in the city, I did it more through the people and their activities in the alleyways and settlements. It’s a fascinating and eclectic mix.
Is there a tradition or a practice that marked you?
Irfan: When you cross the Manikarnika ghat where cremations take place and walk about 50 meters to another ghat, you can see a baby doing his mundan (the Hindu practice of a child having his hair cut for the first time) or a newlywed couple coming to seek blessings from the Ganges. Then this simultaneous expression of the cycle of life from birth to death through important events comes together before your eyes.